Saturday 29 November 2014

Lamium is an Excellent Ground Cover for Shade.



Lamium is an excellent ground cover for shade. The common name is often given as “spotted dead nettle” far too unattractive a little for this low growing carpet of leaves with a stripe down the middle that can be white, yellow, red or silver. Lamium is evergreen from Zone 6 south. Even in Zone 5, where I one live, they persist well into the winter. The erect flower clusters are long blooming, lasting from late spring to midsummer, and can be reddish purple, pink, or whit depending on variety. “Album”  has white flowers and white marked leaves; “Beacon Silver” has pink flowers and silvery leaves. If you set out a little nursery grown pot of lamium in spring, you will have a lamium carpet by fall, and the following year you will perhaps be able to pen your own lamium nursery with which to supply all your friends. It spreads rapidly by above ground runners and is hardy to Zone 4. 

How to Grow Lamium


Here if you want to grow lamium in part or full shade if possible but if the site is very sunny make sure the soil has plenty of moisture. Other than that lamium seems to have no special requirements and is easily propagated by division, cuttings or seed. If you do not want to open a lamium nursery, and it is crowding other plants, shear in midsummer to promote more compact growth. 

Friday 28 November 2014

Rose of Sharon is in number of varieties shades


Rose of Sharon or Hibiscus syrfiacus is the chief value of this shrub, also known as “shrub althaea”, lies in its late summer bloom, usually coming in August. There’re number of varieties, in shades of pink, purple, blue, lavender, red and white. Flowers are usually three to five inches in diameter; extra-large ones can be produced by cutting stems back to two buds after blooming. They’re tall, bushy plants growing as high as 15 feet and can be grown as trees by eliminating all but one stem and removing lower branches. They make good specimen shrubs, given enough space, and also can be used as informal hedges, though close shearing is detrimental both to bloom and to the shape of the plant. 

Plant should be set in while still young and protected with mulch until well established. Even so, until they are mature, they are susceptible to winterkill. They will grow in sun or part shade, and they like moist, humusy soil with good drainage. Pruning need only be done if you want a smaller, compact plant, or to produce larger flowers, as above. Cut back stems to laterals to control size and produce vigorous growth and remove dead or damaged wood. Prune in winter in mild climates, early spring in cold ones. Source: CP


Wednesday 26 November 2014

May Apple is very Charming Plant if Used in a Right Way



This is very charming plant if used in the right way. In late spring each plant sends up what look like two little, folded-up beach umbrellas; these unfold as two broad, umbrellas like leaves under which you have to peek to see the small white or pinkish flowers. But I like them just for the foliage; an established clump forms a large mat that is a sea of umbrellas all summer long. In May a small, yellow fruit (the “apple”) forms where the flowers were. You can eat the fruit but don’t ever eat the roots or leaves both are poisonous and even touching the roots can cause a rash. The other name for the plant is “wild man-drake.”


Naturally growing in open, damp, deciduous woods, May apple likes a rich, moist soil and a fairly acid pH. It makes an excellent ground cover for shaded or semi shaded sites. Plant or divide the rhizomes in fall, leaving at least one bud on each division and spreading out the rhizomes 1 inch below soil level. 


Tuesday 25 November 2014

Lily Produces Magnificent Flowers in Wide Range of Shape Colors and Sizes



These’re the true lilies as opposed to the day lilies described in this article which grow from rhizomes. True lilies grow from big, fat white bulbs that are made up of scales and produce magnificent flowers in a very wide range of shapes, colors and sizes. They bloom at various times from early summer to late summer and even into fall. Everybody who has grown a number of different lilies has favorites some of introduction above. The pace here to describe many of them in detail, but here is at least a run-down of the basic lily groups, more or less in order of bloom. 

The Asiatic hybrids bloom in June in many colors, with heights ranging from 2 to 5 feet and with several different flower shapes. The red-orange “Enchantment” is typical of the upward facing flower types and is a particularly vigorous plant that forms clumps. “Connecticut Lemonglow” has an outward-facing flower; other has a pendent or “Turk S-Cap” shape. The Martagon hybrids are a group that bloom in June, have Turk’s-cap flowers, and are quite tall up to 6 feet. Madonna lilies are white though some of the hybrids are cream or yellow stand 3 to 4 feet tall, and bloom in June or early July. The American hybrids, which can grow as tall as 4 to 8 feet, include the long-lived Bellingham hybrids. 


Midsummer lilies include the Easter lily, L. longiflorum, which is forced into bloom for Easter display but blooms later in the normal course of things. Regal lilies (L. regale) are tall, white and very fragrant. The Aurelian hybrids are an important part of the midsummer lily show. They tend to be fairly tall 4 to 6 feet and include such spectacular varieties as the dusty rose, “Pink Perfection” and “Black Dragon”, whose large flowers are dark red on the outside and white within. Tiger lilies (L. tigrinum), with orange, curled back petals spotted with black, grow up to 4 feet tall. 

The last lilies to bloom, in late summer and sometimes early fall, are the Oriental hybrids, which include the glorious gold-banded lily (white, striped with gold and spotted with red), the Imperial strains, such as “Imperial Silver” (White spotted with brick red) and last of all, the hybrids of L. speciosum, such as “Uchida” mentioned above. Most lilies are hardy as far north as Zone 4 or 5; L. candidum to Zone 8. 


Well, you’ve to think carefully about how to use lilies. They have tall stems with rather sparse foliage growing around them, and they may have to be staked, which makes them look a bit like basketball players on crutches. I put some in perennials beds, and I grow the rest in a semi shaded spot where a lush nest of ferns hides at least the lower half of the stems. It is often said that lilies like to have “their heads warm, their feet cool.” Try to plant something around the base of the plants for their health as well as for looks, but choose shallow-rooted plants that will not strangle the lily bulbs. 

How to Grow Lily

The difference between lily bulbs and other bulbs is that lilies never really go dormant their roots are always growing and no hard protective covering forms around them. What this means for the gardener is that you must handle them very carefully so as not to break off the roots or the delicate scale like pieces that make up the bulb, and you should keep them out of soil for as short a time as possible. Local nurseries often sell them potted up. If they’re unspotted, or if you order them by mail, keep them in a slightly damp not wet packing medium such as peat until you can plan them. 


Lilies do not need fertile soil. In the areas where they’re native generally in the Orient lilies often grow wild in poor, gravelly ground. Overfeeding causes them to have weak stems that always need staking. They need some moisture while they’re actively growing, but drainage must be exceptional. Adding organic matter will help to provide both. Soil pH is not much of an issue except in the case of the Martagon lilies, which like soil slightly acid, and Madonna lilies. Most lilies will do equally well in full sun or part shade filtered shade is nice because it keeps the colors from fading. Martagon lilies, wood lilies and a few others really prefer some shade. 

Though lilies may be planted either in spring or fall, I prefer spring they seem to get established a little better. The only lilies I know of that are always planted in fall are the Madonna lilies. Plant most lilies 4 to 6 inches down measured from the top of the bulb. Madonna lilies again the exception are planted with only an inch of soil on top of the bulbs; you should start to see some of their foliage sprouting before winter. I think lilies should be at least a foot apart to allow for air circulation. 


I hold off staking the plants until I think something might knock them over if I don’t. You should also deadhead them but cut off only the dead flowers, not the stems and leaves, which will continue to make food that the bulbs will store. One other word of caution; lilies can be slow to come up in spring, so be very careful that you don’t dig around the spot where they’re planted or might be planted. If your memory tends to be fuzzy, mark the spot.  Well to except to see either clusters of pointed leaves or an odd little stub with little pointed leaves arranged around it in concentric layers like a shaggy haircut. These get longer and longer, and are fragile, so try not to step on them and break them off. And don’t be disappointed if your lilies fail to reach their full height the first year. Sometimes they just don’t. Source: Charismatic Planet


Saturday 22 November 2014

Periwinkle is a Perpetual Flower That Can Bloom throughout the Year



This is also called “Myrtle” this popular ground cover, about six inches tall, sends out runners over the soil surface that root where they touch ground. The handsome, dark green leaves are about an inch long, and the April blooming flowers a cheerful blue. You can find varieties that are white or purple, but I like the old fashioned “Periwinkle blue” the best. There’re also some varieties with variegated leaves. Periwinkle is probably the best all-purpose ground cover around and is hardy to at least Zone 5. Though the plant is said to be native to the West Indies, it first was described in Madagascar. The periwinkle is a perpetual herb with flowers that can bloom throughout the year, but heavily depending on the climate.

How to Grow Periwinkle

You can grow periwinkle in sun or shade, though some shade is preferable, especially in hot climates. Although it is not fussy about soils and will grow even in poor ones, it likes soil that is moist and slightly acid. I value it for its rather open growth habit, which allows me to interplant it with spring bulbs, but it can be sheared to promote denser growth. Source: Charismatic Planet



Friday 21 November 2014

Cyclamen Flower



Cyclamens are beautiful plants. The flowers hover above the leaves like moths, on long wavy stems. The leaves are heart shaped and often handsomely variegated. Most are dormant in summer. The florist’s cyclamen, “Cyclamen Persicum” thrives out doors in places like California but is grown as a winter blooming houseplant north of Zone 9. Its flower is as large as four inches across and rather flamboyant in shades of pink red, lavender and white; often they’re fringed or double. The plant books from late fall to early spring and grows about a foot tall.

Several cyclamen species are hardy in the north. They’re shorter four to five inches tall with pink, red or white flowers about an inch across and marbled or mottled leaves. Many gardeners find them even more charming than their more tropical relatives. C. coum blooms in early spring. C. europaeum (C. purpurascens) and C. neapolitanum (C. hederifolium) are fall blooming and fragrant. They’re all hardy to about Zone 5 but may survive farther north with winter protection. I think they look best in an informal, woodsy setting but only if they are not overshadowed by larger, bolder plants. 

How to Grow Cyclamen

Cyclamens grow from corms and are planted while they are dormant, usually in midsummer, about two inches deep and about a foot apart. (Plant florist’s and cyclamens outdoors in fall in Zone 9 and 10). They like soil that is rich and moist but not cold or wet. Give then part shade outdoors indoors; give them indirect, bright light.