Fritillaria Imperialis A commonly Grown Plant in Gardens

There’re two types of fritillaries, very commonly grown in gardens, and they’re like Mutt and Jeff. Fritillaria meleagris (checkered lily) has flowers shaped like little hanging bells, in muted, neutral tones like gray, purple, brownish and white with an odd, checkerboard pattern. They normally grow at most to 12 inches, bloom in MindSpring, and often self-sow prolifically. They’re best seen close up, in a natural setting, and are hardy to Zone 3. F. Imperialis (Crown Imperial) sends up a three foot stem topped by a huge cluster of hanging bells in shades of red, yellow and orange often two shades together and the leaves stick up in a tuft on top of the flower. It is grow it in a clump by itself or behind shorter bulbs. Combining it with yellow daffodils and red tulips could be interesting (though it doesn’t produce the subtlest of effects). It is hardy to Zone 5 to 6. 

How to Grow Fritillaria Imperialis 

Give fritillaries a gritty, humusy, moist but extremely well drained soil. It is ought to be fairly rich. They grow well in full sun or light shade. Buy them as soon as they become available and plant them immediately; their bulbs should not be allowed to dry out. Crown imperial bulbs should go at least eight inches apart and six inches deep measured to the top of the large bulbs). Checkered lilies should be three to four inches apart and three to four inches deep. Its division is possible but not essential in fact the bulbs seem to do better if left alone.

Source: Charismatic Planet

Grape Hyacinth or “Muscari” Flower

We can count on this bulb to bloom at the same time as my daffodils and tulips and provide me with some blue accents for my bouquets. The stems are just long enough to be stuck in among the larger flowers, and the small spikes of tiny blue balls are a good contrast to the rounder shapes of the daffodils and tulips. They’re best grown in a spot where you can admire them up close, because the flowers are small because blue flowers are hard to see at a distance. They’re lovely in rock gardens. 

Most of the hybrids sold are derived from Muscari armeniacum, which has large flowers, and grows up to eight inches, or from M.Botryoides, which is a little taller and usually deep blue. There’s also a white variety called “Pearls of Spain”. M. Tubergenianum grows up to eight inches and is light blue at the top of the spike and darker blue at the bottom. These rugged little bulbs are hardy to Zones two to four depending on the variety those derived from M. botryoides are the hardiest. Foliage sometimes appears in fall and winter over. 

How to Grow Grape Hyacinth

Grape hyacinths like full sun or part shade and an average, well-drained soil. Well, plant three inches apart, and three inches deep, in later summer or as early in fall as possible. You can propagate the species from seed and hybrids from offsets (new bulbs that form next to the old ones). Usually they will multiply well by themselves, but if you let them self-sow they may not breed true to color. 

“Glory of the Snow”, A Bright Blue Star Shaped Flower

These delightful bulbs have little bright blue, star shaped flowers and grass like leaves. They start blooming shortly after crocuses, which is handy, because the two look good together. They’re a good bulb for cool climates and are hardy to Zone 3, but they don’t do well south of Zone 8. Naturalize them around a tree in a rock garden, along a woodland path, or wherever they will best be seen. Chionodoxa luciliae grows up to six inches tall and is typically blue with a white center, but “Alba” is white, “Rosea” is lavender pink and the larger flowered “Gigantea” can be blue, purple or pink. Sardensis is dark blue without the white eyes. 

"How to Grow Glory of Snow Flower"

Full sun is best, but glory of the snow will take part shade and in warm areas actually prefers filtered shade. Plant in early fall about two to three inches apart and three inches deep a bit deeper in warm climates. They like a soil that is rich, moist but well drained and lightened with organic matter.

Source: Charismatic Planet 

Gladiolus or “Glads” are Bright Colors Popular Flowers

Gladiolus, or “glads” as they’re sometimes nicknamed are actually popular flowers. Their tall, brightly colored flower spikes are showy in the garden and last a long time when cut, opening gradually from the bottom of spike upwards. Since I prefer to make open, relaxed looking flower arrangements, I don’t grow glads for cutting. But I’ve grown them in a large flower border as vertical accents and in the center of a small round bed filled with a tumble of bright annuals. I can also visualize a fine gladiolus display with flowers growing in a bed by them-selves along a fence. You might also grow them in rows in the vegetable garden if your main goal is to have them for cut flowers. Glad come in all colors but blue, and sizes very from six foot spikes to the dwarf “baby glads”. Most baby varieties are hybrids of Gladiolus x colvilglads you can sometimes find that are less artificial looking. Try G. byzantinus, a two foot red flower. It is hardy to zone 5. 

How to Grow Gladiolus

Glads grow from corms. They’re planted in full sun and in rich soil that should, ideally be more sandy than heavy. You can start planting as soon as the danger of frost is over, then plant in succession every two weeks till midsummer for a longer season of bloom. You should plant glads in groups, digging some compost of 5-10-5 fertilizer into the soil, but add a little soil over it. The corms should not rest directly on the fertilizer. The corms should go about four inches deep, but you can plant tall varieties deeper if you like for better support. Staking, or mounding the stems with soil may also be necessary. I would plant no closer than six inches apart. I’d also sprinkle a little ore fertilizer around the plants after they come up and once again after picking. You should leave some foliage when you pick them so the plant can continue to grow and form new corms. Water plants deeply once a week during very dry spells. 

 

As soon as the first frost hits, dig the glad’s all up with a spading fork and cut the stems back to one inch. Dry the plants for a few weeks out of the sun, and then break off and discard the old corm, which will have exhausted itself. Any new corms or cormels (immature corms) should be saved and stored at 40 to 50degrees. Even gardeners in frost free areas dig up glad’s and store them for a few months in a cool spot; the period of cold dormancy makes them flower better the following season. If thrips are a problem grow only early planting and dig them up before the thrips become active. Put moth flake in the storage bags with the corms to keep thrips from wintering over; dusting the corms with a fungicide is a good idea.  

Dahlia is one of Plants with Endless Flower Classification

Dahlias are one of those plants with endless flower classifications, some are single, like daisies; some are like round balls; others are “Cactus-Flowered”, “Orchid-Flower” and “anemone-Flowered” or “peony-flowered” (why do flowers have to look like some other flower. The flowers can be as small as an inch across and as large as 12 inches if you’re growing exhibition size ones.  Heights range from one to seven feet. There’s a large range of colors, roughly the same as that of chrysanthemums. The thing I like about dahlias is their blooming period, which goes from midsummer to the first frost or a bit after. I use them to add some showy late bloom to perennial borders, but they’re also very effective grown in beds by themselves. They’re colorful and long lasting as cut flowers. 

How to Grow Dahlia

Grow dahlias in full sun or light shade in a soil rich in organic matter and nutrients, especially phosphorus and potassium. Moreover add some lime if your soil is very acid. Dahlias have tuberous roots that must be dug up and stored over the winter in zones where there’s frost, a chore that is not much of a bother once you get into the routine. 

I order new dahlia roots by mail and plant them about a week before the date of the last average frost, laying them horizontally in a hole six to eight inches deep. If you’re planting a tall variety, then put a five foot bamboo stake next to the root and stick it firmly into the ground. If you stake later on you run the risk of piercing the roots. The root should be covered with a few inches of soil; as the plant grows, the rest of the hole can be filled. When the stems become tall, tie them to the stakes if you want shorter, bushier plants, pinch them why they are ten to twelve inches tall. Pinching is less important with the short varieties. Deadhead the plants for more profuse bloom, and water them deeply during drought or they’ll not bloom.

Well, after the first few frosts gently dig up the roots with a digging fork, cutting the stems back to ta few inches. I’ve found that storing in a cool cellar (ideally 35 to 45 degrees) in a tray of peat is a good way to hold dahlia roots over the winter, but only I protect them against mice with some form of wire mesh. One year you’ll found nothing but trays of peat in spring; the mice had eaten every speck of the dahlias. When it is time to replant them in spring you can divide them to increase your stock. Notice that the buds (“eyes”) emerge from the base of the old stem. Slice through the stem vertically with a sharp knife, making sure that each piece of root has part of the stem attached and at least one eye. (Dahlias can also be propagated from stem cuttings). I’ve gotten a head start on the dahlia season by starting mine in pots indoors in a rich, light soil; the only problem is that pots large enough to hold the roots comfortably take up a lot of space.

 Source: Charismatic Planet