Dahlias are one of those plants
with endless flower classifications, some are single, like daisies; some are
like round balls; others are “Cactus-Flowered”, “Orchid-Flower” and
“anemone-Flowered” or “peony-flowered” (why do flowers have to look like some
other flower. The flowers can be as small as an inch across and as large as 12
inches if you’re growing exhibition size ones.
Heights range from one to seven feet. There’s a large range of colors,
roughly the same as that of chrysanthemums. The thing I like about dahlias is
their blooming period, which goes from midsummer to the first frost or a bit
after. I use them to add some showy late bloom to perennial borders, but
they’re also very effective grown in beds by themselves. They’re colorful and
long lasting as cut flowers.
How to Grow Dahlia
Grow dahlias in full sun or light
shade in a soil rich in organic matter and nutrients, especially phosphorus and
potassium. Moreover add some lime if your soil is very acid. Dahlias have
tuberous roots that must be dug up and stored over the winter in zones where
there’s frost, a chore that is not much of a bother once you get into the
routine.
I order new dahlia roots by mail
and plant them about a week before the date of the last average frost, laying
them horizontally in a hole six to eight inches deep. If you’re planting a tall
variety, then put a five foot bamboo stake next to the root and stick it firmly
into the ground. If you stake later on you run the risk of piercing the roots.
The root should be covered with a few inches of soil; as the plant grows, the
rest of the hole can be filled. When the stems become tall, tie them to the
stakes if you want shorter, bushier plants, pinch them why they are ten to
twelve inches tall. Pinching is less important with the short varieties.
Deadhead the plants for more profuse bloom, and water them deeply during
drought or they’ll not bloom.
Well, after the first few frosts
gently dig up the roots with a digging fork, cutting the stems back to ta few
inches. I’ve found that storing in a cool cellar (ideally 35 to 45 degrees) in
a tray of peat is a good way to hold dahlia roots over the winter, but only I
protect them against mice with some form of wire mesh. One year you’ll found
nothing but trays of peat in spring; the mice had eaten every speck of the
dahlias. When it is time to replant them in spring you can divide them to
increase your stock. Notice that the buds (“eyes”) emerge from the base of the
old stem. Slice through the stem vertically with a sharp knife, making sure
that each piece of root has part of the stem attached and at least one eye.
(Dahlias can also be propagated from stem cuttings). I’ve gotten a head start
on the dahlia season by starting mine in pots indoors in a rich, light soil;
the only problem is that pots large enough to hold the roots comfortably take
up a lot of space.
