These’re the true lilies as opposed to the day lilies
described in this article which grow from rhizomes. True lilies grow from big,
fat white bulbs that are made up of scales and produce magnificent flowers in a
very wide range of shapes, colors and sizes. They bloom at various times from
early summer to late summer and even into fall. Everybody who has grown a
number of different lilies has favorites some of introduction above. The pace
here to describe many of them in detail, but here is at least a run-down of the
basic lily groups, more or less in order of bloom.
The Asiatic hybrids bloom in June in many colors, with
heights ranging from 2 to 5 feet and with several different flower shapes. The
red-orange “Enchantment” is typical of the upward facing flower types and is a particularly
vigorous plant that forms clumps. “Connecticut Lemonglow” has an outward-facing
flower; other has a pendent or “Turk S-Cap” shape. The Martagon hybrids are a
group that bloom in June, have Turk’s-cap flowers, and are quite tall up to 6
feet. Madonna lilies are white though some of the hybrids are cream or yellow
stand 3 to 4 feet tall, and bloom in June or early July. The American hybrids,
which can grow as tall as 4 to 8 feet, include the long-lived Bellingham
hybrids.
Midsummer lilies include the Easter lily, L. longiflorum,
which is forced into bloom for Easter display but blooms later in the normal
course of things. Regal lilies (L. regale) are tall, white and very fragrant.
The Aurelian hybrids are an important part of the midsummer lily show. They tend
to be fairly tall 4 to 6 feet and include such spectacular varieties as the
dusty rose, “Pink Perfection” and “Black Dragon”, whose large flowers are dark
red on the outside and white within. Tiger lilies (L. tigrinum), with orange,
curled back petals spotted with black, grow up to 4 feet tall.
The last lilies to bloom, in late summer and sometimes early
fall, are the Oriental hybrids, which include the glorious gold-banded lily
(white, striped with gold and spotted with red), the Imperial strains, such as “Imperial
Silver” (White spotted with brick red) and last of all, the hybrids of L.
speciosum, such as “Uchida” mentioned above. Most lilies are hardy as far north
as Zone 4 or 5; L. candidum to Zone 8.
Well, you’ve to think carefully about how to use lilies. They
have tall stems with rather sparse foliage growing around them, and they may
have to be staked, which makes them look a bit like basketball players on
crutches. I put some in perennials beds, and I grow the rest in a semi shaded
spot where a lush nest of ferns hides at least the lower half of the stems. It
is often said that lilies like to have “their heads warm, their feet cool.” Try
to plant something around the base of the plants for their health as well as
for looks, but choose shallow-rooted plants that will not strangle the lily
bulbs.
How to Grow Lily
The difference between lily bulbs and other bulbs is that
lilies never really go dormant their roots are always growing and no hard
protective covering forms around them. What this means for the gardener is that
you must handle them very carefully so as not to break off the roots or the delicate
scale like pieces that make up the bulb, and you should keep them out of soil
for as short a time as possible. Local nurseries often sell them potted up. If
they’re unspotted, or if you order them by mail, keep them in a slightly damp
not wet packing medium such as peat until you can plan them.
Lilies do not need fertile soil. In the areas where they’re
native generally in the Orient lilies often grow wild in poor, gravelly ground.
Overfeeding causes them to have weak stems that always need staking. They need
some moisture while they’re actively growing, but drainage must be exceptional.
Adding organic matter will help to provide both. Soil pH is not much of an
issue except in the case of the Martagon lilies, which like soil slightly acid,
and Madonna lilies. Most lilies will do equally well in full sun or part shade
filtered shade is nice because it keeps the colors from fading. Martagon
lilies, wood lilies and a few others really prefer some shade.
Though lilies may be planted either in spring or fall, I prefer
spring they seem to get established a little better. The only lilies I know of
that are always planted in fall are the Madonna lilies. Plant most lilies 4 to
6 inches down measured from the top of the bulb. Madonna lilies again the
exception are planted with only an inch of soil on top of the bulbs; you should
start to see some of their foliage sprouting before winter. I think lilies
should be at least a foot apart to allow for air circulation.
I hold off staking the plants until I think something might
knock them over if I don’t. You should also deadhead them but cut off only the
dead flowers, not the stems and leaves, which will continue to make food that
the bulbs will store. One other word of caution; lilies can be slow to come up
in spring, so be very careful that you don’t dig around the spot where they’re
planted or might be planted. If your memory tends to be fuzzy, mark the spot. Well to except to see either clusters of
pointed leaves or an odd little stub with little pointed leaves arranged around
it in concentric layers like a shaggy haircut. These get longer and longer, and
are fragile, so try not to step on them and break them off. And don’t be
disappointed if your lilies fail to reach their full height the first year.
Sometimes they just don’t. Source: Charismatic Planet
