Lilacs in the Spring

Lilac has become one of the most popular of our garden shrubs. The emergence of its sweat smelling blossom in May is a sure sign the summer is just around the corner. Many of the lilacs being grown these days are specially breed varieties that offer a range of flower colors from white, through pink or blue, to deep violet. The original lilacs had pale pinkish violet flowers the color now called lilac.

 

Lilac belongs to that small group of plants that are so familiar in Britain that people mistakenly assume they are native. In fact, most lilac species are native to Asia, with just a few species being found in Eastern Europe. All lilac species are members of the same genus, Syringa, which is itself a member of the olive family. Like other members of this large family, such as privet, ash and forsythia, lilac grows extremely well in the British Isles. One great advantage is that it is tolerant of both acid and alkaline soils. Indeed, on a small scale lilac has become naturalized in this country. The earliest species of lilac to be introduced in Britain and still the one most commonly grown here is the common lilac “Syringa vulgaris”. This species is native to Eastern Europe and Asia Minor. The word lilac comes from the Persian word for bluish lilac or nilak. It was first appeared in Western Europe I the 16th century and was introduced to Britain in 1621 by the naturalist John Tradescant, who later became King Charles I’s gardener.

 

In appearance, the common lilac is typical in many ways of most Syringa species. It is a shrub or occasionally a small tree, growing no higher than 8m. Usually, it it has several stems growing from the base although there may be just a single slim trunk. The bark is smooth and grey. The leaves are mid green, smooth surfaced and have a characteristic heart shape. They are folded along the central vein so that when seen in cross section, they are shaped like a V. The leaves can grow to a length of 15cm.

 

The flowers emerge in May on pyramidal panicles about 15 to 20cm long. On common lilac, the flowers are not surprisingly, lilac colored but on other species of lilac they can vary from white to pink, mauve, blue or deep purple. The panicles may also be much longer on other species, sometimes reaching a length of 45cm. The flowers are followed by the fruits. These consist of flattened capsules that split, each releasing two winged seeds; they ripen in October.

 

Soon after the common lilac reached Britain the first of many lilacs native solely to Asia was discovered. This was the Persian lilac “Syringa laciniata”, named after the country in which western botanists first discovered it growing. In fact, it has been cultivated in both Persia and India for centuries. The Persian lilac in much smaller than the common lilac, rarely reaching more than 2cm in height. It is unusual among lilac in having leaves that are lobed rather like those of an oak. It produces violet purple flowers in May.

 

The Persian and common lilacs were crossed several times in attempts to produce a superior lilac. The most notable success came in 1795, when once Monsieur Varin, the Director of Botanic Garden at Rouen in France, produce a hybrid that was named Rouen lilac “Syringa x chinensis”. This is a handsome shrub, still popular among gardeners. It grows to a height of 4.5cm and bears large compound panicles of lilac colored flowers in May. At this time of the year, the whole bush may be covered with flowers.

 

Moreover, during the 19th century, many more lilac species were discovered and brought back to Britain as botanists began to explore the Far East. The famous plant hunter, Robert Fortune, discovered Syringa oblate growing in a Shanghai garden in 1856. Unluckily it does not flower well in this country because its blossom appears early in the year. Often, a spell of warm weather in early spring induces the flower buds to grow, only for them to be killed soon after by a sudden cold snap.

 

Despite its frequent failure to flower well, S. oblate soon proved itself to be a useful source from which to breed hybrids and varieties. Many of the beautifully colored lilacs grown today are crosses between the common lilac and S. oblate. Much of this work was done by the French horticulturists Victor Lemoine and his son Emile in Nancy during the 1870s’. Several of the far eastern species of lilac resemble small trees rather than shrubs. For example Syringa pekinensis grows to a height of 6m and always has single trunk. In June its spreading branches are covered with a profusion of cream colored flowers borne on small panicles 7 to 12 long. This species was discovered in northern China at the end of the last century.

 

Further, during the 19th century one further species of European lilac was found to place alongside the common lilac. It was discovered in 1830 growing in Transylvania and the Carpathian Mountains of Eastern Europe by the Baroness of Josika. It is now known as the Hungarian lilac “Syringa josikaea”. This lilac is not one of the most attractive but like Syringa oblate, it has proved to be a useful source for hybrids and varieties. Many of the finest modern lilacs were raised from this species by Dr Isabella Preston, who worked in Ottawa, Canada during 1920’s. One of the most popular of her hybrids is Bellicent a large arching shrub with clear pink flowers trusses about 25cm. Which appears in May? Traditionally, lilac used to play an important role in folk medicine, the flowers and bark being used to reduce fevers. Lilac must have made an unpleasant medicine since it has an extremely bitter taste. The wood from a lilac shrub has few commercial uses nowadays, though in Victorian times it was used for decorative inlay work.

Gloxinia or Sinningia speciosa

This is a very beautiful plant when in bloom, and this is when you are apt to receive it as a gift-a cluster of large bell shaped flowers rising out of a circle of large, dark green fuzzy leaves. After Gloxinia blooming goes into a dormant state during which the leaves and stems die and there is nothing left but a little, flattish tuber. The stunning Gloxinia is a genus of three species of tropical rhizomatous herbs in the flowering plant family Gesneriaceae, primarily found in the Andes of South America but Gloxinia perennis is also found in Central America and the West Indies, where it has most likely escaped from cultivation.

At this point most people throw the thing away, not realizing that they can keep growing it and re-flowering it for decades. Gloxinias come in many vibrant colors mainly in red, purple, pink and white some are spotted or edged with contrasting colors. You can purchase a gloxinia at any point in its life. It it’s in bloom you can see what the flowers look like of course but often it is easier and less expensive to purchase a tuber in midwinter, planting it about ½ inch deep in a soilless mix. Water it sparingly while it is starting to root, then keep soil evenly moist but not soggy while the leaves appear. Try not to get the leaves wet. Gloxinias will do well in a room, whose temperature is normal or cool, but the air should be fairly humid, and the plant should have bright light but not direct sun. Like other members of the gesneriad group, which includes African violets and streptocarpus, gloxinias do well under fluorescent lights give them 14 to 16 hours per day. Feed with a balanced or high phosphorus fertilizer once a month while plants are growing.

Moreover, after bloom stop feeding and gradually stop watering. When the leaves turn yellow and the plant goes dormant you can either leave the tuber in the pot or repot it in a slightly larger one, then store it in a dark, cool place about 50degrees, keeping the soil almost dry until a few months later when new growth starts. Or you can dig up the tuber and store it in peat moss for at least forty five days.  Then place it in barely moistened peat or a soilless mix when you want it to start growing, just as you do when you buy a new tuber. New plants can be propagated by dividing the tubers just when they show eyes, making sure there is an eye for each division or by taking leaf cutting. Gloxinia is a perennial flowering plant, but many hybrids are grown as annuals.

Golden Chains of Laburnum

The spectacular springtime show of yellow flowers gives laburnum its common name is “golden chains” or “golden rain”. But the laburnum also has its dark side, for it is one of the most poisonous trees growing in the British Isles. Like so many of the more colorful trees that grow in Britain, the lovely laburnum is not native to this country. It comes from the mountainous areas of central and southern Europe and was familiar to the ancient Romans. A great naturalist, Pliny the Elder, described it as a “tree from the Alps” with hard white wood and long yellow flowers which bees will not touch. He was right that honey bees are not attracted to this tree, because its flowers do not produce nectar. But the wood is not white; the sapwood is butter yellow and the heartwood is a dark chocolate-brown. Nevertheless the name laburnum is derived from the Latin for white sapwood.

From its native countries, laburnum was slowly introduced to the rest of Europe and reached in Britain in the 2^nd half of 16^th century. The first laburnum to be introduced to this country was the common laburnum (laburnum anagyroides). This was followed about 30 years later by another species laburnum alpinum, which was found to grow much better than the common laburnum in the harsher conditions of Scotland. This laburnum is now known as the Scotch laburnum. A third laburnum, now more widely planted than either of the other two, is Voss’s laburnum (Laburnum x watereri). This is a hybrid between the common and the Scotch laburnum and is in many ways superior to them, particularly in its flowers. It also has a narrower crown, which makes it popular in small garden. All laburnum species flourish in the British Isles; indeed, they have become adapted to the British climate better than any other introduced tree. Not surprisingly, both the common and the Scotch laburnums became naturalized soon after they were introduced helped also by the fact that both species set seed abundantly. The best place to see a naturalized laburnum is in wild hilly country.  

Apart from some differences, laburnums resemble each other closely. They are small trees, growing no more than 9cm high which is why they have long been popular as street trees and for planting in small town gardens. The bark is smooth and olive green sometimes turning brown with age. The trunk is slender, seldom exceeding 30cm in diameter. The leaves are unusual in that each consists of three short stalked leaflets laburnum is the only tree commonly grown in the British Isles to have this leaf arrangement. The leaflets are up to 8cm long; their upper surfaces are pale green and smooth, the lower surfaces light grey and hairy, however hairless on the  Scotch laburnum.

Moreover, laburnum is a member of pea family and this is shown in the shape of its flowers. These consist of five bright yellow petals arranged in typical pea fashion one large standard petal two wings and two more connected to form a keel. The flowers are borne on long pendulous racemes that vary in length from 15cm to 30cm. On the Scotch laburnum the racemes are bit longer than on the common. But they are also narrower and the flowers are more widely spaces. The Scotch laburnum blooms later around the end of June, which is about three weeks after the common laburnum. The flowers of Voss’s laburnum combine the best features of the other two; its racemes are as long as those of the Scotch laburnum, but the flowers are larger and more densely borne, like those of the common laburnum.

All plants in the pea family have their fruits borne in pods. In the case of the laburnum, these pods are slender, hairy and light green when immature. They turn brown and lose their hairs as they ripen in July and August. When the pods are ripe they twist and split along their margins, forcing out the small hard seeds these are black on the common laburnum and brown on the Scotch laburnum. One or two seeds at the stalk end of the pod are often left behind if the twisting action was not strong enough to force them out. If the tree is growing in the wild this has the advantages of spreading out the interval at which the seeds are distributed, and so increasing the chances of a seed finding conditions favorable for germination.

Although the laburnum is widely planted for its beauty it is nevertheless, an extremely poisonous tree in all its parts roots, leaves, flowers and seeds. The seeds are particularly poisonous and every year there are cases of young children falling ill after eating them. There are also a few cases of cattle being poisoned after browsing on the pods, though rabbits and hares seem to be unaffected. The poisonous nature of laburnums is another reason for the popularity of the hybrid Voss’s laburnum. As well as having prettier flowers than either of the other two, it produces far fewer seed pods and so attracts children less. The seeds themselves and other parts of the tree are just as poisonous as on other laburnums, however. As described above, that all parts of laburnum, especially the seeds are highly poisonous. Symptoms appear an hour after ingestion. The victim suffers from a burning sensation in the mouth, nausea, severe thirst, abdominal pains, sweating and headache; in severe cases death follows. However, it is very rare chance that children eat a lethal quantity of seeds approximately 15 to 20. Nevertheless, immediate treatment by a doctor is advisable eve if only one or two have been eaten.

Over the centuries laburnum wood has been greatly prized by cabinet makers for its hardness and its contrasting colors. The difference in color between the sapwood and the heartwood has given rise to what is known in the furniture trade as oyster work. These are small discs or roundels of wood formed by cutting across a laburnum branch to expose concentric rings of growth. The inner rings are chocolate brown heartwood and the 3 or 4 outer rings are butter yellow sapwood. Laburnum branches an also be cut at an angle to give oval slices. Both sorts of cut are used for decorative inlay work and veneers. Furniture carrying oyster work was particularly popular during the reign of William and Mary; today it fetches a high price at auctions. Laburnum wood is also ideal for turning work fruit bowls, egg cups and so on since it is hard, close grained and takes a high polish. Pulleys and blocks made from laburnum last almost forever, and the chanters on Scottish bagpipes are frequently made from this wood because it can be bored accurately.

Source: Charismatic Planet

 

Clivia Miniata A Prettier Indoor Plant

Clivia miniata also “Kaffir lily” grows from a thick rooted bulb. It is a species of flowering plant in the genus Clivia of the family Amaryllidaceae, native, growing in woodland habitats. It looks something like the more familiar amaryllis, to which it is related, but I think it is prettier and its clusters of orange, red or gold flowers more subtle than the huge amaryllis flowers. Flowers can appear any time from December to April, however mostly appears in March. The flowers are rising on 18-inch stalks from the tidy, dark green, strap like leaves and opening over a period of several weeks. Most plants get about 2 feet tall but there are more compact varieties.

Moreover, Clivia’s are very easy to grow plants once you understand them. They will take morning or late afternoon sun, but too much midday sun will scorch the leaves. Hence bright indirect light all is best. Give them average room temperature and humidity by day, but cool temperatures at night if possible. During the dormant period before bloom, a temperature of 50 to 55 day and night will help to induce bloom. Clivia’s like an organic soil like that used for African violets and need to be pot-bound in order to flower. Clivias don’t appreciate root disturbances; however, repotting can be done every three to five years in spring once the flowers have faded.

Repot only when the roots are crawling out of the top of the pot. A heavy pot is often necessary to keep them from tipping over. In the spring and summer season you need to keep the plants evenly moist, fertilizing every two weeks. A summer outdoors in filtered sun will do your Clivias well. Also, bring them in before frost, and stop feeding them. Starting around thanks giving, give them little no water, and if possible keep them in a cool room that gets no light in the evening. When a flower stalk emerges, bring the plant into a warm, light place and start feeding and watering it again. Moreover, plants may be propagated by removing and replanting side bulbs in spring when new growth starts.

Blanket Flower

Gaillardia common name blanket flower is a genus of flowering plants in the sunflower family, Asteraceae, native to North and South America.  Blank Flower “Gaillardias x grandiflora” is look like large daisies, with bold, bright markings like those of an American Indian blanket, in patterns of red, yellows and gold’s. Mostly grow about 2 ½ feet tall, but there are also dwarf varieties. They bloom in summer over a long period and are a good choice if your climate is hot and dry. Varieties include the mixed colored “Monarch Strain” and solids such as dark red “Burgundy” and Yellow Queen. Multicolored Goblin grows a foot tall.

 

It is resemblance of the inflorescence to the brightly patterned blankets made by Native Americans, or to the ability of wild taxa to blanket the ground with colonies. If you want to grow a permanent long season of bloom, blanket flower is a great choice. The daisy-like flowers are formed from early summer to early fall in a different shades of orange, red and yellow, adding up sizzle to the garden and enticing nectar-seeking butterflies.

The stem is usually branching and erect to a maximum height around 80 centimeters. The leaves are alternately arranged. Some taxa have only basal leaves. They vary in shape. Blank Flower needs to grow in moist humid areas the plants may develop fungus diseases in summer or succumb to rot from winter moisture. Moreover, you need to avoid mulching them and given them light, well drained soil, preferably on the sandy side. Gaillardias can be grown fairly quickly from seed, and will flower the first year. In spring, you watch from new shoots that may appear quite a distance from the original clump. If the center of the clump dies, discard it and replant the side shoots.

Many cultivars have been bred for ornamental use. Thus care of blanket flowers includes planting in a full sun location to keep this fast growing specimen happy. As a native plant to the central United States and Mexico, blanket flower is a heat loving flower are drought tolerant and do not like wet feet from soggy soil. Growing blanket flowers can naturalize in a meadow or field adding hues of color. Easy care of blanket flowers makes them an ideal specimen for many landscape uses.

Viburnum, A Trouble Free Fragrant Flowering Plant

Viburnums are a joy to grow because they are so trouble free and they offer so much. Most bear while flowers in mid or late spring, some of them are very fragrant; these are followed by berries many of which are showy and either red, black or yellow. In addition may have colored foliage I fall, some of it quite striking. Moreover size are varies, so select the right one for the site.

Among the best fragrant viburnums are Burkwood viburnum “Viburnum burkwoodii” whose flowers are cluserts 3 inch pinkish white balls. Fragrant snowball (v. carlcephalum) is same and normally grows to 9 feet. Korean spice viburnum “V. carlesii” is the most fragrant of all, is only 5 feet tall, and its variety Compacta even smaller. All are hardy to zone 5. Southeerners favor sweet viburnum “V. odoratissimum” which normally grows to 10 feet and is hardy to zone 8.

Well, other attractive viburmums include double file viburnum (V. plicatum tomentosum) a tall and broadly spreading shrub with wide flowers clusters atop the branches (in the variety “Mariesi” They are very speciall showy. Linden viburnum “V. dilatatum” has very showy red berries as well as rust red fall foliage and grows to 9 feet. Bothe are hardy to zone 5. Moreover American cranberry bush “V. Irilobum” has flat flower clusters and red berries that are edible. It is hardy to zone 3.

Though not particular viburnums appreciate a good, light, moist loam. They are shallow rooted and appreciate a mulch to keep roots moist and protected in winter. All will tolerate some shade, though full sun produces the best flowers and fruits. Viburnums can be propagated by layering. They rarely need pruning, though old plants can be thinned at the base. Spring blooming species bloom on old wood, so prune the tops only after flowering if needed. Source: CP

 

Epimedium Flowers

Epimedium “Epemedium grandiflorum” is also called “bishop’s hat” is one of favorite ground covers. It is one of those plants which look like maidenhair fern, that looks dainty and delicate but is really as tough as they come adaptable, easy to grow, and hardy  to zone 3. The small spurred flowers are supposed to resemble a bishop’s miter, but they look to me like miniature columbines.

 

They come in various colors depending on the variety white, pink, red, lavender and yellow, appear in late spring. Rose Queen is a good red and Nivum has large, showy white flowers. The heart shaped leaves are pinkish when they first emerge in spring. They overlap in beautiful soft looking mounds and last even into early winter, after turning a reddish bronze color.

Moreover, Epimedium grows slowly when first planted. But it looks like the tortoise that beat the hare it slowly and steadily established large, vigorous clumps. It will grow well even around the bases of trees, where it is graceful addition. Epimedium prefers part shade but will grow in sun if you give it the moist, humusy soil in which it does best. Soil should be well drained and slightly acid. Since it is shallow rooted, try not to cultivate around it, but instead apply a light mulch to control weeds. Divide in spring, preferably while plants are dormant cutting the tough roots with a knife. Source: Charismatic Planet

 

Queen Anne’slace Flower

Queen Annne’slace “Daucus Carota”  flower is so common that you might assume t to be an American native, but it’s really from Afghanistan and was introduced to the Europe in colonial times. Meadows roadsides and overgrown fields are full of it lacy, flat umbels made up of many tiny white flowers and a solitary purple one right in the center. They bloom a long time, from June to August in most areas, which means you have them throughout the summer to lighten and soften bouquets of brighter, less delicate flowers. You may like the way the flowers look when they are fading and start to close up like little cups. They are the same species as our common garden carrot, and in fact if you pull one up you will see a carrot shaped, carrot smelling taproot, though its stringy and white instead of fat and orange. The plants are hardy.

Moreover Queen Anne’slace will grow in cultivated gardens, although if the soil is very fertile and stems may become leggy.  It will tolerate dry, infertile soil quite well but needs at least a half day of full sun. In spite of the fact that it chooses to live in meadows, it cannot compete with vigorous rooted perennials and grasses. It is best simply to naturalize a clump of it somewhere and keep the soil weeded and cultivated so that the plant will self sow abundantly. Like many members of umbelliferae, Queens Anne’slace does this well anywhere, but in cultivated ground it will do so best. On the other hand, if you don’t want it to self sow, deadhead the plants or just pick them. There’s always a place for another bouquet of Queen Anne’slace. Like other tap rooted plants they can’t be divided but seeds can be collected when dry and sown outdoors in late spring.

The Goldenrod Flower

Solidago, commonly called goldenrods, is a genus of about 100 to 120 species of flowering plants in the aster family, Asteraceae. Most people are familiar with goldenrod, with its bright yellow plumes in late summer and early fall. For years it has been blamed for the hay fever that so many people get at that time of year, perhaps because the fuzzy goldenrod flowers look so pollen laden. In fact it is the sly, less conspicuous flowers of ragweed that cause most of the trouble. The many goldenrod species can be difficult to distinguish, due to their similar bright, golden-yellow flower heads that bloom in late summer.

People also don’t realize that there are several different species of goldenrod. Hybrid forms are even sold. In Europe goldenrod is more treasured as a garden plant that it is here. The best goldenrods to grow are probably the ones native to your area, though goldenrods are very adaptable. Most are typically found in rather infertile meadows. In fact farmers where the soil of an abandoned field needs work if they see goldenrod growing there. Solidago species are perennials growing from woody caudices or rhizomes.

Canada goldenrod “Solidago canadensis” is a common species that likes meadows slightly moist in spring and dry in summer, and grows up to four feet. Wrinkled or rough stemmed goldenrod “S.rugosa” is similar though sometimes taller. Both are hardy to zone 3. Showy or noble goldenrod “S. speciosa” can grow quite tall and has particularly fine gold flowers, hardy to zone 5 or 6. Seaside goldenrod “S. sempervirens” hardy to Zone 5, blooms a long time, even into late fall, and the leaves are evergreen. It is the best species to grow in seaside locations.
Some species produce abundant nectar when moisture is plentiful, or when the weather is warm and sunny. Moreover, goldenrods prefer full sun. They can be very invasive, spreading by creeping rootstocks and self sowing, especially in moist, fertile soil. They may need to be controlled in a garden setting but are good flowers for a meadow garden. To propagate, divide in late winter or early spring. Goldenrods are, in some places, considered a sign of good luck or good fortune.

Anemone or WindFlower

These are the tuberous anemones as opposed to the fibrousrooted typessuch as pasqueflower (Anemone pulsatilla). All are spring flowering. The most familiar kinds are the ones sold by florists. Which are hybrids of A. coronaria. These have three inch, very brightly colored flowers I shades of red, pink, purple, blue or white, often with striking black or yellow centers. They look a bit like small oriental poppies and grow 12 to 18 inches tall. Popular strains are the single “De-Caen” hybrids and the semidouble St. Brigid and St. Bavo.

None are reliably hardy as fulgens is similar in flower and growth, bright red and a little hardier. A. blanda “Greek anemone” is hardier still, though a bit less showy. Moreover daisy like flowers on six inch stems in shades of blue, pink, lavender and white carpet the ground and may survive as far north as Zone 5 with winter mulch.

Well, if you want to grow Anemones, then this flowers like full sun but can take part shade, especially at midday. The soil should be well drained and can be lightened with organic matter for better growth. Add some lime if the soil is acid or if you have used an acid material like peat to lighten the soil. Soak the tubers overnight in water before planting. A. coronaria tubers are planted 8 inches apart, 2 to 3 inches deep those of Greek anemones 4 to 6 inches apart and 2 inches deep. If you live in the north you need not give up on the tender anemones altogether. Either grow them indoors or plant them outdoors in early spring, then dig them in late summer and store them in a cool place in bags of peat.

 

How to Grow Crocus

Well, of all the small spring bulbs the crocus is most favourite among flower lovers. It is not the earliest to bloom, but when it does, often poking up out of the snow in such bright colors. It seems to tell you that if it can get through the rest of winter and mud season without looking grim, so can you. Most of the crocuses normally grow are hybrids of Crocus vernus or C. hrysanthus and have showy flowers in shades yellow, purple lavender and white. Some are striped, and all have handsome yellow stamens.

Moreover, the large flowered Dutch hybrids are the most popular, but if you want to search out other kinds of crocuses you may be able to stretch the blooming period. Some, such as the lavender C. speciosus, even bloom in fall. C. sativus which is lavender or white is the crocus from which the prized spice saffron comes. The bright orange stamens are dried to make this costly seasoning. Most crocuses are hardy and do best in cool climates. They grow from corms. Crocus is a genus of flowering plants in the iris family comprising 90 species of perennials growing from corms

Further if someone wants to grow Crocus, then most gardeners like crocuses not only because of their spring message of cheer, but also because they are trouble free, permanent plantings the multiply by themselves and needn’t be divided. They can be naturalized in grass, but as with any bulb with foliage that persists after bloom, they should not be moved while the leaves are still green. Crocuses like full sun or part shade. Moreover, best to plant some in a sunny sheltered spot for early bloom and some others in a cooler.  Soil required not be rich but must be well drained. Plant them about 4 inches apart, four inches deep in early fall. Plant fall blooming crocuses as soon as they become available in late summer.

The Allium, Most Graceful Ornamental Flower in your Gardens

If you have ever seen chives blooming you may have been surprised to find that the plant is as ornamental as it is useful in the kitchen. Most gardeners do not realize that many members of the onion family produce flowers pretty enough to grow in gardens. They are a very diverse group, with flower clusters in many sizes, shapes and colors and blooming times range from spring to summer to fall. The one thing they have in common is an oniony smell when the foliage is rubbed or stepped on, but this does not happen often enough to offend, and some of the flowers are sweetly fragrant. Most of them make fine, long lasting cut flowers, and some every dry well for winter arrangements.

A wonderful allium to try is Allium giganteum “giant garlic”. In early summer it sends up long stalks about 4 feet tall, topped with 5 inch balls, perfectly round, made up of tiny purple flowers. Buy the time they bloom there is little or no foliage around the stems, so grow them together with lower, bushy plants or behind a low wall. If you like big, round purple flowers, you will really love A. albopilosum “A. christophii” commonly called “star of Persia”. Its flower cluster is looser than that of A. giganteum and up to a foot in diameter, with star shaped flowers in late spring. Stems are shorter, about 2 feet.

A.aflatunense has 4 inch purple balls in May and grows to 2 feet or a bit more. Other handsome spring alliums include A. moly “golden garlic”, with flatter clusters of yellow flowers, about a foot tall, and A. neapolitanum “daffodil garlic”, which is roughly the same height and bears fragrant white flowers in April. For late summer bloom, A. tuberosum “Chinese chives or garlic chives”, which has white, fragrant flower clusters. For fall try A. stellatum or A. thunbergii, both short stemmed and pink flowering. Most alliums are hardy to Zone 4, A. neapolitanum is hardy to Zone 6.

Moreover, if you want to grow Allium then this plant like full sun, though A. giganteum will do fine in part shade. Soil can be of average fertility but it should be lightened with organic matter and moist but well drained. They can be planted in spring of fall, from bulbs or from seed though seed grown plants may take a long time to reach flowering size. Plant the short ones about 4 inches apart, the tall ones 8 inches to a foot apart.

A few things are very important to watch for; some alliums should be deadheaded to prevent them from self sowing all over the place. They also propagate themselves by forming little bulblets on the sides of the bulbs by which you can increase your stock if you so desire. A friend of mine cautions me that his A. giganteum did not produce flowers the second year becaust its energy had gone into producing the bulblets, although by the third year the bulblets were large enough to flower. So if your allium gives you foliage but no flowers, be patient; it may perform better in the future. Also note that many spring flowering species are summer dormant, so don’t be alarmed when the foliage disappears.

Grow Begonia with their Own Special Virtues

Well, there are several types of begonias you can grow indoors, all of them very different from one another in the way they look and grow, and all with their own special virtues. The fibrousrooted wax begonias, which are normally grown most often as outdoor annuals, make fine ever blooming houseplant. Tuberous begonias also can be grown as houseplants though they will only bloom in summer Angel-wing begonias (Begonia coccinea) are fribrous rooted, cane type begonias that grow up to 4 feet and more and bear dangling clusters of small are flowers almost year round. Iron cross begonias “B. masoniana” are foliage plants, growing 1 ½ feet tall from rhizomes; they are valued for their crinkly, apple green leaves, which are marked in the center with a dark green cross.

Perhaps the most spectacular and popular begonias grown as houseplants are rex and Rieger begonias. Rex begonias “B. rex-cultorum” grow from rhizomes and have small pink or white flowers in spring, but heyare most prized for their arge magnificent leaves, which are an intricate brocade of green, red, bronze, pink or silver. They make a lavish mound a foot tall or a bit more miniature varieties are 6 to 8 inches. Rieger begonias “B. x hiemalis” often have colored leaves but are grown for their profuse, showy flowers at least 2 inches across in shades of red, pink, orange and yellow. Which provide months of color in winter? They are fibrous rooted.

Begonias in general like plenty of light, and flowering types should have several hours of sun each day for best winter bloom. Daytime temperature should be in the 65- to 75- degree range a bit cooler for Rieger begonias and not below 50 degree at night. All especially rex begonias like humid air, but it must circulate well to avoid mildew, especially the large leaved types.

Soil with should be a nice, light, organic mix, like that sold for African violets, and should be kept evenly moist, or just slightly dry between watering. But drainage must be excellent and you should avoid wetting the leaves. Fertilize lightly with a balanced fertilizer about every two weeks, while plants are in active growth or in the case of Rieger begonias, all year. Fibrous rooted kinds should be repotted in spring as needed; those with rhizomes go in shallow pots and should remain rootbound until you can see rhizomes all over the soil surface.

Moreover Rieger begonias that stop blooming can be cut back to several inches to produce fresh, flowering growth. Stems of rex begonias should be cut back to the base if they start to  get leggy. Wax begonias also benefit from being cut back, and stems of angel wing begonias without leaves should be cut back in early spring to make new growth. All begonias can be propagated easily by stem cuttings. With rex and Rieger begonias leaf cutting are also a good method.

Ficus, The Most Popular House Plant

One of most popular houseplants is the weeping fig, also called “Ficus benjamina”, normally just called “ficus”. Though related to the edible fig, it does not bear fruit, but it makes a beautiful display as an indoor plant. Thus, a busy tree that might grow upto 50 feet in its native Malaya.  It can easily be kept to 6 feet or so or allowed to grow to ceiling height, which it will do within a few years.

Its 3 inches shiny, pointed leaves tolerate low humidity well one reason why “ficus” is such a popular plant. Another oft-grown ficus is that old standby the rubber plant (F. elastica).  It looks almost like an artificial plant, with its large, dark green oval, shiny leaves, and it can grow to the ceiling if you don’t pinch its tip. Though now out of fashion because of overuse, F. elastica is still a good plant to grow if you need something big and green in a spot with little light. it will grow in bright light too. The variety “Decora” has very broad leaves, and there are variegated varieties as well, though these need more light in order to show their colors.

“Ficus” plants like fairly warm rooms but will tolerate low humidity because their leaves are rather leathery.  F. benjamina needs more light that F. elastica filtered sun or bright, indirect light is best. Soil for both can dry out a bit between watering, but don’t overwater. F. elastica will get leggy, and F. benjamina will drop its leaves. Sudden changes in the environment, such as being moved or exposed to drafts, can also cause leaf drop in the latter, and making it seem like a delicate fussy plant. But it will normally recover promptly with new growth. Feed both regularly except in fall or winter and wash the leaves with warm water. They like to be rather pot bound and their size can be controlled by root pruning them and putting them back into the same pot. Stems can also be cut back to the desired height and will produce new, compact growth.

Hyacinth or Hyacinthus Flowers

Well, grow at least a few hyacinths so you can pick them. You know, they are looking very prettier indoors in vases, where they can perfume the room, than they do in gardens. The leaves, which seem to stick around forever, are quite unsightly, and even the flower heads, look rather lumpy among the more dainty shapes of the other bulbs. But grown with something to soften them, such as a sea of forget me nots or blue flowering periwinkle; they are not hard to take. The flower heads become less thick as years go by an improvement.

There is Hyacinthus you can grow besides Hyacinthus orientalis, from which the big Dutch cultivars are commonly derived. Try Roman hyacinth (H. o. albulus) in blue, pink and white. Roman hyacinth has a looser cluster but more stems per plant. The common hyacinth is hardy, you can still try it north of there is you give it some winter protection and plant is frilly deep.

If you want to grow Hyacinthus then in the north plant Hyacinthus as early as in fall. However in warm areas refrigerate the bulbs for a few weeks and plant in late fall. They like a sandy loam of moderate fertility that is moist but very well drained. Grow in full sun or light shade. Plant the large bulbs 5 inches deep and 6 inches apart, and trying to create the effect of natural groupings to offset the rather stiff bearing of the leaves and flowers. Also Read: Learn How to Grow and Care Tips For Hyacinth Bulbs

Begonia or Tuberhybrida

Begonia is a genus of perennial flowering plants in the family Begoniaceae. The genus contains 1,795 different plant species. The Begonias are native to moist subtropical and tropical climates. Some species are commonly grown indoors as ornamental houseplants in cooler climates. Tuberous begonias are prima donnas compared to the relatively low key plants, but it is hard to resist them especially if you are coping with a shaded or partly shaded situation. These are not grown as annuals. They grow from little around tubers that persist from year to year if you take care of them properly.

There are several types of tuberous begonias, all of them gorgeous. The most spectacular are the upright forms, which grow a foot or more tall and produce flowers as large as 10 inches across in vivid reds, pinks, salmons, apricots, yellows, oranges and white. Flower forms vary, as some are shaped like roses, camellias, ruffled edges and some have edges in a contrasting color. The multi-flora types are bushy plants about a foot tall with smaller flowers; but they are easier to grow and are more tolerant of sun. The pendula types have long, trailing stems that make them perfect for hanging baskets. All types bloom all summer but are hardy only in frost free zones.

How to Grow Begonia?

Well, if you want to grow begonia, then the stems of all begonias are fragile and will not stand heavy dog and cat traffic, so plant them in a safe spot. They can also be grown in containers, indoors or out. The leaves do not like to get too wet they can mildew or sit in the sun. The worst thing you can do to begonias is to get their leaves wet, then let them sit in the sun (the leaves die). The tubers and stems can both rot if the soil is too wet. The flowers also have a tendency to drop off, like reluctant debutantes, just as they are reaching their peak of exquisite perfection. You can float a dropped off blossom in a bowl of water and it will stay pretty for days.

Moreover, put begonias in a spot, where they will get plenty of bright light to keep them from getting leggy, but don’t put them in direct sun. Give them moist, light soil with plenty of organic matter, and make sure it is well drained. They prefer humid air, but it must circulate freely around the plant. To plant begonias, start the tubers as early as February, setting them in trays of moistened peat moss. You just need to simply press them gently, flat side up and round side down into the surface of the peat.

Water lightly and wait for them to sprout little pink buds if they have not done so already. Shoots will emerge from the buds and roots will form at the sides of the tubers.. when the tubers have sprouted just put each one in a pot about 5 inches wide on top, filled with a light potting mix such as one part loam, one part peat, and one part sand, with perhaps some compost or rotted manure worked in. As the plant grows be sure it has plenty of light or you will get leggy growth. Stems should not be pinched. Moreover, use fluorescent lights if you haven’t a bright natural source out of direct sun.

Furthermore, a high nitrogen fertilizer such as fish emulsion will give the leaves the rich dark green color you want to see. When frost threatens bring the potted plants indoors, but don’t try to keep them blooming too much longer. Before fall is too far underway you should let them become dormant by withholding water and letting the foliage die. Then store the tubers in dry peat or sawdust until its time to plant them again. Some people divide the tubers by cutting them, making sure there is one eye to each plant. Normally the prefer to let each tuber get bigger and fatter each year, making  larger, more magnificent plants, and then take cutting from these if you want to increase the stock. Cuttings should be rooted in moist sand. Source: Charismatic Planet

Magnolia

Well, magnolias are handsome ornamental trees, with their showy flowers, their dark green leaves and their relatively small size. Magnolia is a large genus of about 210 flowering plant species in the subfamily Magnolioideae of the family Magnoliaceae. It is named after French botanist Pierre Magnol. They are generally thought of as southern plants, but there are species that will do well in the north,, even though they may not make you feel like Scarlett O’Hara. Saucer magnolia (magnolia x soulangiana) grows about 25 feet tall, normally with several trunks, with smooth, dark gray bark. The large flowers, white streaked with pink and purple, sit upright at the tips of the branches before the leaves appear. Star magnolia is a considerably smaller tree the flowers, which appear quite early in spring, are like large fragile white stars. The natural range of Magnolia species is a disjunction distribution, with a main centre in east and Southeast Asia and a secondary centre in eastern North America, Central America, the West Indies, and some species in South America.

The foliage is much finer textured than that of saucer magnolia. Bothe are hardy, but in cold climates are best grown in a partly shaded exposure to retard bloom early flowers can be killed by cold, and late snowstorms can turn start magnolia blossoms into tattered wrecks. Southern magnolia, also called “bull bay” (M.grandiflora), is a native ever green single trunked tree that can grow as tall as 90 feet, though it is usually a good bit shorter. It is hardy though it may survive farther north if grown in a sheltered location. It has huge, glossy, dark green leaves and fragrant white flowers that can be as large as a foot across. Its seeds pods, which open in fall to reveal red seeds, are also ornamental.

Magnolias normally like full sun, except in the situation described above, and except for southern magnolia, which is fairly shade tolerant. All like fertile, loose, well drained soil that is rich in organic matter, with a slightly acid pH. Magnolias do not transplant easily and should be planted balled and bur lapped in spring. The roots are shallow, and care should be taken when cultivating around them. Moreover keep the soil moist while the trees are becoming established, and mulch them. Magnolia scale can be treated with a dormant oil spray. Magnolias do not respond well to pruning because the wounds do not heal easily. But any dead or diseased wood should be removed. Remove water sprouts,, suckers and any undesirable branches while they are small, if possible, pruning softer flowering in early summer. Spent blossoms can be removed for better bloom the following year, but usually magnolias bloom prolifically on their own. The shorter kinds can be trained to one trunk or allowed to be shrub like.  Source: Charismatic Planet

Zinnia Flower

Zinnias are tender annuals that all gardeners love because they make a great show and are easy to grow. Zinnia is a genus of plants of the sunflower tribe within the daisy family, native to scrub and dry grassland in come in a variety of bright colors. The genus name honors German master botanist Johann Gottfried Zinnia. Zinnias are annuals, shrubs, and sub-shrubs native primarily to North America, with a few species in South America.

Flowers are flat or rounded heads of petals, like overlapping scales, in every color except blue. The height and flower sizes may vary. However, modern hybrids are derived from Zinnia elegans, Z. angustiflia and Z. haageana, and range in height from 12 inches to 3 feet. Large, tall zinnias such as the Zenith strain or the California Giants are good for the back of the garden. Cut and Come again, zinnias are bushy plants of moderate height that are full of button like flowers and bloom all the more if cut. Thumbelina zinnias grow about 6 inches high and all bloom until frost, and none need staking.

Moreover, to grow zinnia you can sow seeds indoors about 4 weeks before the last frost and set out in moist, fairly rich soil 8 to 18 inches apart depending on the size of the variety. Large zinnias will not branch properly if planted too closely. Too close planting may also lead to mildew. Use peat pots since they do not like to be transplanted. Since zinnias germinate and grow so quickly. It is also possible to sow them directly in the garden after danger of frost. Leaves may mildew, but this will not affect bloom. If the mildew bothers you, use a fungicide. Water in drought,, but try to keep water off the leaves, since this can make the mildew worse. Zinnias are warm weather plants and make excellent long lasting cut flowers.

 

The Scilla Flower

Scilla is also known as Squill is a genus of about 50 to 80 bulb-forming perennial herbs in the family Asparagaceae, subfamily Scilloideae, native to woodlands, subalpine meadows, and seashores throughout Europe, Africa and the Middle-East. Scillas have small bell like flowers that dangle from thin 3 to 6 inch stems. Most gardeners love blue Scilla which mixes brightly with pinks, purple, whites, and contrast crisply with yellows and golds. The scilla family offers some of the best blues to be found anywhere. From the huge, striking blue of Scillia Peruviana to the smaller, carefree blues of tubergeniana and blue-purples of amethystine these sparklers belong in every garden that celebrates spring.

Most of the ones you will see in gardens and their color are blue, purple, lavender, pink and white scillas too. They are lovely in situations where their delicate beauty can be appreciated planted in woodland gardens, under the light shade of a deciduous tree, in rock gardens, or naturalized in lawns. Modern hybrids come from a number of species, most commonly Scilla siberica. S. tubergeniana has fewer flowers on a stem but more stems to a plant S. bifolia, the twin leafed squill, has more open flowers.

The precise number of Scilla species in the genus depends on which proposals to split the genus are accepted. S. hispanica (S. campanulata), Spanish bluebell, is quite tall usually over a foot and a good choice for shady location. The hardiest of all these is S. siberica, which will survive in cool climate plants. But if you want to grow S. peruviana, which is a foot tall usually purple, like the names of many bulbs, S. peruviana’s name is a geographical muddle; though both its Latin name and its common name, “Cuban lily”, give it a Latin American origin it is really native to the Mediterranean region.

African Violet or Saintpaulia

Almost any plant can be a house plant if you want it to be even a tree if it’s grown as a bonsai. Although in growing houseplants the limitation are the space and light available but the plant choices are almost infinite. If you have patience for one little houseplant, this might be perfect one. It blooms almost all the time, eve in winter. It’s a tidy and compact, with pretty, oval, fuzzy leaves surrounding the flowers, which grow up in the center, making the plant look like a bouquet. Sometimes the leaves are bronzed or variegated. Hybridizers have produced thousands of varieties whose flower colors range from a wonderful intense blue, to purple, magenta, lavender, pink, coral and white but no real red as yet.

The flowers are normally about an inch wide, some are ruffled or fringed and some bicolored. All have bright yellow stamens in the center. Standard sized plants grow up to a foot tall, and semiminiature are 6 to 8 inches, as are the true miniatures, which have tiny flowers. There are also trailing varieties. The Optimara, Ballet and Rhapsodie series all contain excellent varieties. If your interest is sparked you may want to investigate the wider world of African violets. If you do not have much light and your rooms are on the cool side, you won’t have good luck with them unless you grow some of the newer varieties bred for low light and cooler temperature. Consult the African violet society for further information.

If you want to grow African Violet, then do best in a warm room where it is at least 70 degrees during the day and no colder than 60 degrees at night. Light should be bright but not direct sun; fluorescent lights and growing lights designed for plants seem custom made for African violet, and may enthusiasts use these alone. The plants prefer quite humid air especially the trailing ones and soil that is kept evenly moist, though it is all right for the soil to dry out for a day if the plants are not actively growing. They respond very poorly to overwatering and poor drainage. Use water that is at room temperature and try to keep the leaves dry to avoid leaf spot diseases.

Moreover, the easiest way to give African violets the soil they like is to buy a bag of commercial “African violet soil”, or you can make your own mix using one part peat or leaf mold for organic matter and one part sand or perlite for good drainage. Thus, feed about once a month with “African violet food” or a standard houseplant fertilizer one that is not too high in nitrogen or you will get lots of beautiful fuzzy leaves and no flowers. Over feeding is also a grave error, causing the leaves to turn gray and the leaf stems to rot. Flush out excess fertilizer salts regularly.

Further, use fairly small, shallow pots, keeping the plants a bit root bound, and turn and potted plants from time to time if most light comes from one side otherwise your flower display will be lopsided. Crowns can be derived, but leaf cutting are the best way to propagate African violets. Use a medium sized leaf and dip the stem in rooting powder. African violets don’t last forever; after they become woody the often decline that’s the time to take leaf cuttings.

Night Sky Petunia

If you gaze Petunia at distant you don’t have a strong enough telescope? Then don’t worry, because we have got the flawless solution. So, all you need to do is to buy yourself some Night Sky Petunias, because as you can see, their petals look like they’re hiding secret little universes inside of them. With their many different patterns, colors, shapes, and sizes, it's not unusual to gaze upon an unusual plant and realize that it reminds you of something totally different. Because, one flower that has taken this spectacle to the next level is the Night Sky Petunia. The Petunia is an appealing purple bloom that will have you seeing stars literally. The scientifically known as “Petunia cultivars”.

This cosmic flower features exclusive markings reminiscent of a starry sky. The each distinctive plant features clusters of purple flowers speckled with glowing white dots that look like celestial bodies. This hypnotic characteristic has made Night Sky Petunias, which can reach an average height of 16 inches and bloom during the spring and summer.  The Petunia is a mainly popular plant among gardeners and flower enthusiasts. So, what causes these ethereal patterns? A large variance between day and night temperatures will cause temporary white coloring to form on the flowers.” Thus, to guarantee that your Night Sky Petunias are always shining, you should aim to keep them toasty warm during the day and cool at night. If you'd like to grow your own galaxy-in-a-pot, you can pick up a packet of Night Sky Petunia seeds from

Amazon.

Source: CP